Restaurant Reviw – Vida Cantina - NOW CLOSED

One of those gorgeous Saturdays last month (a 70+ degree day), we grabbed lunch on the patio at Vida Mexican Kitchen y Cantina at the St. Louis Galleria. And it was good.  Before going there, I googled to check if it’s chain restaurant, and from what I could find, the only other Vida Cantina is in Charlotte, so it would be on the non-chain Evans' approved list. 

Its menu is an interesting blend of traditional Mexican and American Mexican fare. Known for its tequilas, with over 100 varieties (!!), its margaritas, while on the small side for the price (too much ice), were pretty tasty thanks to the zip of lots of fresh lime juice. Our server, Kellie, knew the menu inside and out and advised that since the Skinny Margarita (that costs $2 more) is only minutely less in calories, go with the real deal. Appreciated the honesty and advice. Service was extremely attentive in an unobtrusive manner.

We started with chipotle queso, a blend of cheeses with chorizo that was good, not a huge portion for the money, but certainly substantial enough to share. The housemade, nicely salted, warm tortilla chips are addictive, and the salsa is very fresh, chunky, heavy on onions and cilantro, which was fine by us.

We also had the HUGE guacamole trio – traditional guac, a mango-based one, and the third was poblano that was our favorite – which Craig rated as terrific, and this is from a guy who doesn’t like guac (yeah, I know, how can this be?).

We shared two entrees, the first being taco al pastor – roasted pork in manchamantel sauce, with grilled pineapple, a house blend of cheeses, onions, and cilantro. I researched manchamantal (“tablecloth stainer”) and learned this red sauce is a blend of fruit (pineapples, bananas, apples) and chiles from central Mexico, similar to Cantonese sweet-and-sour sauce. The pork was tender but slightly crispy. The corn tortillas were absolutely outstanding, and I’ve since read they are made by a local purveyor on Cherokee Street. Vida prides itself on using local vendors as much as possible, a plus for those of us who like to eat local.

We also had the chicken and spinach enchiladas, which we never would have chosen other than when we asked Kellie what she liked, she highly recommended them. These were good but not something we’d order again, not that exciting when compared to the tacos, pretty ordinary.

Vida is a pricey for Mexican but a nice alternative if you find yourself at the mall around meal time, and you appreciate freshness.

Chicago Restaurant Review - TRU

This article continues to chronicle our recent dining experiences in Chicago. Thursday was our splurge night and did we ever.

TRU

The only other meal we’ve had comparable with our dinner at TRU was years ago when Alain Ducasse had his restaurant in the Essex House in NYC. TRU lived up to our expectations - and more. The dining room is very open, décor sleek and contemporary, but still welcoming for a romantic dinner. We opted for the Chef's Collection nine course tasting menu, which ended up being more like 14 courses. Every dish was creative and simply fabulous, stunning presentation, and service matched the food - impeccable. Executive Chef Anthony Martin (who looks like he’s 12) has a visual arts background, which you recognize when you see what arrives at your table.

Highlights of the meal included TRU’s signature white sturgeon “caviar” served in a tin. It’s not caviar, but sturgeon that has been smoked, pureed, and immersed by drops in liquid nitrogen to form beautiful snow white balls that are served with avocado puree and hazelnut crackers. This was a fun and easy introduction to the concept of caviar for newbies like us.  

We also really enjoyed the ancho cured duck breast served with tangerine slices, sour cherries, and frisee served atop a STONE.

The superbly seared foie gras with “10 grapes” (the wine-colored dots) made Craig take notice (he doesn’t do foie). Perfectly caramelized on the outside, melt-in-your-mouth buttery, creamy on the inside, the perfect descriptive of unami.

Next up was jidori chicken roulade with petit cabbage and banyuls gastrique presented on a tree trunk. I kid you not. WOW factor aside, this was likely the course I most enjoyed and by far the best chicken I’ve ever eaten. Really? Chicken? Yes. Translated, jidori means “from the ground,” this Japanese free range chicken was perfectly executed with robust, earthy flavors.

The prime beef ribeye, served with wasabi potato puree and maitake mushrooms, was presumably dry-age, prime beef based on its bursting, rich flavors, almost full-bodied, juicy, with just the right amount of marbling.

I am a cheese course girl and we had at least 10 to choose from, a mix of cow, goat, and sheep milk cheeses accompanied by clover honey, fruit nut bread, and berry fruit compote.

Next up was the “linens out to dry”, resembling a clothesline with pins that held house made fruit leathers that melted bursts of sweet and tart flavors in your mouth.

Finally, dessert. I had read about TRU’s deconstructed campfire of s’more and even though it is not currently on the menu, our server was more than happy to have it prepared for me – grahams, chocolate, and luscious homemade marshmallows. What a treat.

Craig’s dessert, lemon sorbet, geranium consommé, was dramatically served “Compliments of George”.

I must give credit to Craig for providing a few contributions to this review that include noticing the "synchronized" serving of every course where the servers surround your table and present the dish at the EXACT same time to each diner – and – the impressive feat of selecting our wine, Coho Michael Blackburn merlot, from the 1,800 wines in their 61 page wine list.

TRU was on my culinary bucket list, and it’s a bitter sweet to cross it off. If you’re in Chicago, treat yourself and a loved one and dine at this American icon.

Next review we late lunched at Sable Kitchen & Bar

Chicago Restaurant Reviews - Trenchermen

After dropping Connor off at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY to start his new adventure, we headed to Chicago to see Barbra Streisand at the United Center and eat our way through Chi-town, or at least as much as our stomachs and wallets would allow in three days. The Windy City is such a foodie mecca, quite challenging to narrow down where to go with a limited number of meals. Over the next few days I will be posting our reviews of where we ate. Hope you enjoy.

Trenchermen

Trenchermen, a relative newcomer to the Chicago restaurant scene, is located in Wicker Park in an old Turkish bath house and owned by veteran Chicago restaurateur/chef brothers Michael and Patrick Sheerin. The interior is urban cool, loud, but still classic. The service was simply impeccable. The right about of attention and the waiter was helpful in describing the dishes and making recommendations.

The cocktails were fun, full of unexpected and seasonal flavors. Craig started with a celery gin and tonic, which he loved and proceeded to tell our server he next wanted a gin fun. No clue what was in it, but also enjoyable. Being a whiskey girl and campari lover, the Pioneer - Pine Needle whiskey, campari, citrus – was a perfect starter for me, quite fresh considering its base. The wine list was small and very reasonably priced (we had a 2010 Farbre Montmayou Cab from Mendoza that was nice).

The highlights of the evening included the much raved about pickle tots, a cross between fried pickles and tater tots served with thinly sliced, smoked, and cured chicken bresaola atop a big schmear of beet-sweetened red onion yogurt sauce – very pink!

The hake was our other personal fave, served in a piquant piquillo pepper broth with a leek and hazelnut slaw and lemon custard.

We also shared the milk braised pork shoulder, served with spaghetti squash and which was tasty but frankly too much like nice chunks of Easter ham, and in hindsight we regretted not trying the short ribs instead. Next time.

Up next - TRU. 

Truffles in Ladue Spectacularly Reinvents Itself

I don’t write restaurant reviews on my blog, but a dinner out a few Mondays ago was so memorable that I am sharing it. We had the privilege of sampling the new tasting menu at Truffles, a longtime St. Louis favorite that has gone through a few chefs and reinventions over the years.

The new executive chef, Brandon Benack, has transitioned the menu to that of modern American cuisine with an infusion of Southern classics, while continuing to pay tribute to local artisans and ingredients. Chef Brandon’s resume is impressive, with stints at Emeril Lagasses’ restaurant in New Orleans, three years in Antigua, chef de cuisine at Emeril’s Miami Beach, and as the corporate chef at Norman’s Orlando and Norman’s 180 under the guidance of the “Father of Fusion Cuisine,” Normal Van Aken.

On to the food. While each course was offered with appropriately paired wines, we opted for the 2009 Pezat, Chateau Teyssier – Bordeaux Superiore for our dinner, which is a blend of merlot and cab franc, dark fruit, spice, and firm tannins. A “Craig wine” for sure that worked with all the dishes, especially the one it was intended, the ribeye (more on that shortly). I did enjoy a delish Manhattan too.

We started with broiled plaquemines parish oysters with smoked bacon and manchego. Craig is not an oysters fan, but he agreed these were perfectly prepared. 

A house made mini loaf of bread followed. I typically don’t eat bread, not worth the calories, but Craig said I had to try it. He was right. Warm, chewy but with a delicate crumb, this is one of the best breads I’ve ever tasted.

The next course was seafood gumbo, a dish honed by Chef Brandon’s time in New Orleans, rich, thick, and nicely spiced.

Wedge salad with lump crab, chopped egg, bacon, red onion, cherry tomatoes, and cayenne-buttermilk dressing was up next. Fresh and fun, we appreciated the lightness of the course as we knew what was to come.

Course four was dover sole, blackened and served atop sunchoke puree. I always turn my nose up at the woodiness of sunchokes. These knotty veggies are just not my thing, but in a puree, not bad. The dish was also served with a classic sauce for fish, vierge, with heirloom tomatoes and rich, buttery beurre blanc.

 I lovelovelovelove foie gras. But Craig – let’s just say his palate continues to evolve – which is a good thing, and dishes like help him grow.  It was served with savory caramel, apple butter, candied orange zest, and a (local) pecan pound cake served pan perdu style (prepared similarly to French toast), again a nod to Chef Brandon’s New Orleans background.

Two more courses left. Truffles is in the process (and it may be completed by this publication time) of creating an in-house dry aging program for in its beef – all prime, of course. Additionally, they are in the process of installing a 1600 °F infra-red broiler for preparing its meats. The ribeye, seared perfected pink and medium rare with housemade steak sauce, was served with THE best mac & cheese I’ve ever tasted. Creamy but with a crunchy panko topping, it was perfect. I could eat bowls and bowls of this stuff. Carbs and fat be damned. The local white asparagus was an appropriate side.

On to the final course – what else but Bananas Foster? Prepared from the dining room’s cooktop, which we were privy to be seated next to, it was fun to watch our dessert being flamed.

The chef’s tasting menu is $70 and well worth the splurge. We enjoyed the meal so much that we’re headed there tomorrow night for my birthday dinner. St. Louisans, check it out. You won’t be disappointed.

A Food Blogger's Dream Date

Recently I had the privilege of “breaking bread” with two of St. Louis’ finest culinary figures, Josh Allen of Companion and Chef Gerard Craft of Niche, a Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2008 and a two-time James Beard Finalist, along with a few other St. Louis food bloggers.

The seminar, arranged by Companion and held in the kitchen of Chef Gerard’s Niche, focused on moving bread from the humble bread plate to center stage on the menu. Don’t get me wrong. Companion breads, named by USA Today in 2007 as one of the “Top 10 Artisan Bakeries” in the country, are truly amazing eaten modestly with a drizzle of olive oil and freshly ground black pepper. But the flagship Companion Pain Beaucaire, simple white bread, starred in all three courses the chefs prepared (click on the title link to go to the recipe).

Carmelized Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Goat Cheese Bruschetta  

Brick Chicken with Root Vegetable Bread Salad

and Affogato featuring Cinnamon Brown Butter Croutons and served over Serendipity ice cream and a shot of espresso.

I’ve never been privy to a restaurant off-hours, let alone in the kitchen and up-close and personal with such renowned talent. The atmosphere was laid-back, but really informative, and questions were encouraged. These guys were interested in us. Why we blog. What we blog about. What we cook. Everyone was quite impressed with the jams, jellies, and preserves that Libby from Café Libby puts up and the gorgeous food porn photographer-chef-in-the-making posts at Shoot to Cook. And chatting with Sauce Magazine's food and spirits columnist, Ligaya Figueras, about foraging and growing figs trees was a treat too.  

Watching and listening to the pros casually throw out tips and tidbits was indeed a highlight of the afternoon:

• Simple food is delicious food. Okay, I knew this, but all the more special when Chef Gerard says it and shared that Mondays at Niche will now follow this mantra.
• Easy, rustic bruschetta is so adaptable. It transcends the standard topping of tomatoes-and-basil. A quick Food Blog Search turned up an interesting tuna, spinach, and aioli brushetta, next up on the appetizer try-this list for me.
• When making bruschetta, pay attention to the bread crisping in the oven so that it doesn’t burn. It can easily happen.
• If you forget to rub the bruschetta with a garlic clove prior to adding the rest of your toppings, simply rub the garlic on the bottom of the bread. No worries, tastes great.
• Salt onions, garlic, shallots while sautéing but salt vegs like mushrooms after they’ve released their liquid and are done cooking.
• Messy appetizers are great ice-breakers at parties.
• Don’t just reach for the olive oil when sautéing. It breaks down under high heat. Use it in combination with something like a vegetable oil.
• Panzanella (bread salad) transforms nicely from the traditional summer tomatoes-and-cucumbers salad to a tasty winter dish where the bread cubes are tossed with roasted butternut squash, celery root, and rutabaga.
• Next fall, DO NOT CUT DOWN THE SAGE AND ROSEMARY PLANTS. These overwinter and continue producing even with all the snow and freezing temps we’ve had.
• Bread bakers are notoriously cheap and use lots of water in making their bread “sponge” (24 hours for Companion’s bread), which results in a hearty bread with a tremendous flavor, a crunchy crust, a nice, open airy texture (and cool, uneven holes in the crumb)
• Cinnamon brown butter croutons are dangerous. They are bread crack, highly addictive. Super easy to make and quite versatile, and a topping for apple crisp.

I made the Brussels sprouts bruschetta on Friday evening, subbing garlicky Boursin for the goat cheese, and no surprise, these with a huge hit with my guys. What’s not to love – all those taste sensations – crunchy, salty, slightly sweet – in a messy, bite-sized nibble. The only problem was that they were SO delicious that we didn’t have an appetite left for the port-braised chicken with figs I made for the entrée.

Small St. Louis world as it is, I ran into Libby yesterday at the St. Louis Community Winter Farmers Market, and she mentioned she was making a crisp using the cinnamon brown butter croutons. Brilliant idea. I tossed a few jars of the apples we canned this summer with some maple syrup and cinnamon, topped with the crumbs, and baked in a 375 degree oven for about 55 minutes. A scrumptious dessert and one of the easiest I’ve made in a long time. I must confess that I had to restrain myself from just picking off the topping.

We’re fortunate that Chef Gerard and bread baker extraordinaire Josh provided us these gorgeous photos and encouraged us to share the recipes with our readers (links above).

Thanks to Companion and Niche for their generosity in putting such a wonderful outreach event together.

Companion Affogato

Josh Allen | Companion

Salted Caramel, Vanilla or Chocolate Ice Cream

Cinnamon Brown Butter Croutons (recipe follows)

Freshly brewed Espresso

In a small bowl, generously sprinkle sweetened croutons and add ice cream. Pour espresso over the top and serve immediately.

Cinnamon Brown Butter Croutons

4 Slices Companion Bread, day-old

3 tbls Butter, unsalted

½ cup Granulated Sugar

1 tsp Cinnamon

Good pinch of Salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Remove crusts from day-old bread slices and tear remaining bread into small pieces. In a mixing bowl, add bread pieces, sugar, cinnamon and salt. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook just until milk solids turn brown. Pour browned butter into mixing bowl and toss to combine. Lay crouton mixture on a baking sheet lined with parchment and bake for 30-45 minutes turning occasionally. Let cool and store in a sealed container. Croutons will keep for one week at room temp or up to 3 months in the freezer. If they last that long!

Brick Chicken with Root Vegetable Bread Salad

Gerard Craft | Executive Chef, Niche

3 Boneless Chickens, Split, With Skin On

Salt & Pepper to taste

3 Tablespoons vegetable oil

¼ C water

2 Tablespoons butter

Croutons 



1 teaspoon chopped thyme


1 teaspoon chopped rosemary

6 C Companions bread diced

6 tablespoons micro planed Parmesan

Salt & Pepper to taste

¼ C Olive Oil

Vegetables

1 small red onion thinly sliced


3 Tablespoons sherry vinegar


2 C butternut squash diced

2 C celery root diced

2 C Rutabaga diced

¼ C pine nuts toasted

¼ C currants (plumped in a small amount of warm water)

3 Heads of frisee with green tops trimmed and broken into leaves

1/2 C olive oil plus extra for roasting the vegetables

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 Tablespoon chopped fresh sage


Salt & Pepper to taste


In a bowl toss the squash, celery root, and rutabaga with enough oil to coat. Season the vegetables with salt and chopped sage and place in one layer on a sheet pan. Place vegetables in a 400º convection oven and roast until just tender, about 10 minutes. Remove and let cool.

Toss the Companion Pain Beaucaire in a bowl with the olive oil, thyme, rosemary, Parmesan, and salt and pepper. Lay the bread on a sheet pan in one layer and place in a 400º until toasted on one side, then flip to toast on the other side (about 8 minutes per side). Remove and let cool.

Soak red onions in the sherry vinegar until they seem tender. Remove and whisk the olive oil and mustard into the sherry vinegar and season with salt and pepper as needed.

Season chicken with salt and pepper on both sides. In a heavy pan heat vegetable oil until barely smoking, add the chicken skin side down and place another heavy pan on top of the chicken and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, being careful not to burn, until the skin is looking very crispy. Remove the top pan and place the chicken in the 400º oven until it reaches 150º internal temperature. Remove chicken from oven and flip over so the skin side is up and place back on the medium burner. Add water and butter to the pan and simmer until the chicken reaches 160º, about 2-3 minutes.

Place all of the vegetables, croutons, frisee, nuts, currants, onion, and three tablespoons of the vinaigrette in a large bowl and toss. Season this with salt and pepper. Pour in the butter from the chicken pan and toss. Add more vinaigrette to taste. Divide the salad onto 6 plates and lay the half chickens skin side up on top.

Feeds 6

Caramelized Brussels Sprout Bruschetta

Gerard Craft | Executive Chef, Niche

2 slices Companion Pain Beaucaire

1 clove garlic

¼ cup shredded brussels sprouts

8 brussels sprout leaves, steamed

¼ cup rendered bacon lardons

2 tbsp bacon fat, reserved from lardons

¼ cup goat cheese

heavy cream

1 tbsp toasted walnuts, chopped

juice and zest of ½ lemon

salt 


Prepare Goat Cheese Spread:

Combine goat cheese, walnuts, lemon juice and zest and salt to taste. Add just enough cream to make a spreadable paste.

For Bruschetta:

Grill Companion Pain Beaucaire bread. Once grilled, rub with raw garlic clove. Spread half of the goat cheese mixture on top of each bread slice. Meanwhile, sauté the shredded Brussels sprouts with bacon fat. Once caramelized, add the bacon lardons. Place the bacon mixture on top of the goat cheese. Garnish with the steamed Brussels sprout leaves and serve.

Serves 2-4

Eating Locally in St. Louis

St. Louis is a great food city. Last night we dined at Terrene, one of our long-time favorites and one of the first "vocal" supporters of eating locally and sustainably (listing providers of their ingredients on the menu), reusing/recycling (bar floor was once the gym floor at a local boys' Catholic high school, table tops are made from recycled newspaper), composting food scrapes, etc.

Since we were headed to see Amahl and the Night Visitors at Union Avenue Opera, we selected a few appetizers to share rather than full dinners. I also had a salad with a poached egg atop mixed greens and caramelized onions and lardons. There is just something about breaking a warm, rich egg yoke and having it run all over the greens with a bite of the sweet-salty bacon that really gets me going - a masterpiece. Craig had a cup of the ham and bean soup that Elizabeth, our server, described as what your Grandma would make, thick, with a balanced smoke flavor, small pieces of tomato, and not too many beans, Craig's preference. We shared the veggie (slightly spiced, soy) sausage flatbread with sun-dried tomatoes and provolone. This rustic, chewy-dough small plate is truly a carnivore's delight and has fooled by meat-loving / soy-hating husband, son, father, and father-in-law. Quite an accomplishment for a simple flatbread. We also had the hand-cut frites, unquestionably THE best in St. Louis. They are nicely browned and perfectly crispy, slightly salty, creamy inside, and we ate every last one on the huge plate that is delivered with housemade mayo and spicy horseradish ketchup. Certainly both tasty, but never get touched.

While the most visually appealing appetizer was the citrus scallop ceviche, I must admit we did not finish it. Frankly, we just weren't thinking. This is something that would likely appeal to me in the summer. Light, sweet/tart, and the scallops were perfectly "cooked", it just didn't cut it - for us - on a winter night.

Terrene's wine list is well-organized by flavors - for instance, white+minerally+crisp or red+big+ intense, our choice of course, a reasonably priced Australian Elderton Shiraz.

And - on Saturday the foodfest continued. After running in the Frost Bite Series in Forest Park, we headed over to the now-indoor Tower Grove Farmers' Market and proceeded to Local Harvest Cafe, named Best New Restaurant for 2009 in River Front Times, for a late breakfast.

Talk about eating local. A chalkboard lists that 50% of the ingredients come from within 150 miles of St. Louis, and fun things like the (HOT!) pickled jalapenos I had on my egg/garbanzo bean/red potato casserole are made in house. Craig particularly enjoyed a rich, cream cheese stuffed whole-grain (Companion Bread) French toast. Three kinds of "help yourself" local Goshen Coffee is the java served. We love it - "Know Your Food."

WOW! Gerard Craft's New Brasserie by Niche - AMAZING

We had dinner last night with friends at Gerard's new French restaurant, which opened Tuesday (old Chez Leon space). Simple, classic, bistro fare done extraordinarily well. Gerard was highly visible and worked the dining room the entire evening. Our server was attentive, knowledgeable, and her recommendations were right on.

On to what we had - three courses - appetizer or salad, entree, and dessert - for $30. Wow. What a bargain, considering the chef is one of THE darlings of most major US culinary publications. Google Gerard Craft and you'll see what I mean. We started with a mix of spiced olives and grougeres - cheese puffs so light you could eat a hundred because they're filled with air. Salad course was frisse topped with a pouched egg and bacon lardons. I opted out of dessert and sub'd another appetizer - four large scallops, perfectly caramelized but tender and sweet roasted red beet bites. Nice combo of flavors. For my entree, I had mussels - a HUGE bowl, perfectly seasoned, and pomme frites, served in what I think of as a mint julep cup - thinly sliced, crispy, with appropriate saltiness. Craig had a Hinkebein Hills Farm pork chop and scalloped potatoes, Jim had a ribeye steak, and Bruce had trout. Most of the wine menu is French, no surprise, very reasonably priced, and we enjoyed two bottles of 2006 Chateau Teyssier Bordeaux. Strong Kaldi coffee complimented the apple tartes tatin that the guys immensely enjoyed.

I know we'll be back. I cannot wait to try the pate and a friend who attended last week's soft opening highly recommended the cheese burger served with those best-in-the-city frites.